What makes the best Vietnamese nuoc cham? Banh xeo, bun chay, ban hoi and spring rolls are great sum

Publish date: 2024-06-17

Vietnamese food is the go-to for those hot summer months when people are searching for a light meal packed with fresh herbs and vegetables, accompanied by that distinctive jar of orangey, sweet and sour dipping sauce.

Whether crispy banh xeo (Vietnamese crepes), bun chay (noodle salad), banh hoi (rice vermicelli bundles), spring rolls or even summer rolls, none of these dishes are complete without nuoc cham. And there’s more to the quintessential dipping sauce than what meets the eye.

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“It is the spirit of Vietnamese cuisine,” declares Giang Muoi, executive chef of An Nam restaurants in Hong Kong. “If you want to test if a Vietnamese chef knows their stuff, then you don’t test them by anything else, just how they make the nuoc cham is enough.”

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So what qualifies as a good dipping sauce?

“You won’t be able to stop eating,” says Giang. “The sweet, sour and umami flavours should whet your appetite and have you craving for more. I always include some in my staff meals and the girls always ask for seconds.”

The secret to making a good dipping sauce comes as no surprise: it’s all about the ingredients. “Never use vinegar,” insists chef Giang. “A lot of restaurants keep the food cost down by using vinegar instead of lime juice, but that is a huge mistake. Vinegar strips off the palate and makes all food taste bland. This creates the opposite effect of what nuoc cham should do; instead of increasing your appetite, it limits your enjoyment of the dish.”

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And it has to be made with the finest quality ingredients your money can buy. “Always use the best fish sauce you can get your hands on. In Vietnam, the best fish sauce comes from Phu Quoc where the waters are clear and the fish sauce is made with fresh fish,” says Giang.

And for the heat, the executive chef prefers to use Vietnamese chilli peppers that are known for their spiciness and juicy flesh.

“You can use sliced chilli for more of a kick but you can also mince it for a more balanced heat,” she says. “It’s best not to use pre-chopped garlic as well. Freshly minced garlic from the bulb has a much brighter flavour.”

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Even rock sugar, a staple in Asian pantries, is given careful consideration.

“There are a lot impurities in store-bought rock sugar. It’s best to blanch it a bit to get rid of the sediments,” she adds.

On a hot summer’s day, we dig in to Gian’s famous spring rolls, and her efforts with the dipping sauce really show. There isn’t any harsh acidity that many have come to associate with nuoc cham. Rather, it’s a medley of sweet, sour and umami flavours that keep you coming back for the next bite.

As we compliment the chef on the deliciousness, she grins and says: “I’ve had customers asking me for just cucumbers so they can eat more sauce. Would you like some?”

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Chef Giang’s tips for making the best nuoc cham at home

1. Start by blanching the rock sugar, if you wish, as this gets rid of the impurities.

2. Mix the sugar and lime in the water, resulting in a lemonade.

3. Taste the mix. If it’s too sweet, add some water. If it’s not sour enough, add more citrus. The flavour and acidity of lemon or limes can vary from fruit to fruit, so adjust until it tastes right.

4. Add fish sauce in small increments. The flavour should be a little strong since it will be paired with unseasoned food.

5. Top with garlic and chillies; the sauce is ready to be served.

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